Hagi Castle Town

Hagi: A Castle Town That Shaped Modern Japan

〜萩：近代日本を形作った城下町〜

I first visited Hagi on a whirlwind tour of major sites in the area in 2014. Due to bus delays, I was unable to explore Hagi as thoroughly as I had hoped, and I have always longed to return. Hagi is perhaps the best-preserved Edo Period castle town I have ever visited. While no original castle buildings remain and only a few samurai residences have survived, the layout of the castle town—including its roads and city blocks—remains impeccably preserved. In fact, you can still navigate the streets using maps from the 1800s.

The History of Hagi as a Castle Town

The history of Hagi as a castle town begins and ends with the Tokugawa Bakufu. Unlike many other great Edo Period towns that evolved from thriving Sengoku Period castle settlements, Hagi was newly established by the Mori clan at the beginning of the Edo Period. After their defeat at the Battle of Sekigahara (1600), the Mori lost most of their lands and were reassigned to this extremely remote region. While they had options for establishing their new base, they ultimately chose Hagi due to its natural defenses, access to the sea, and distance from direct Tokugawa oversight. The forced relocation to a remote province fostered anti-Tokugawa sentiment among Chōshū samurai, which may have contributed to their role in the downfall of the Edo Bakufu 250 years later. One legend suggests that throughout the entire Edo Period, the Mori lord was greeted each New Year with the question, "Lord, shall we attack the Tokugawa this year?"

For this profile of Hagi, I will start with the castle and work outward, eventually covering the farthest reaches of the city, which are deeply tied to the Bakumatsu Period - the end of the Tokugawa and the Edo Period.

Castle Structure

Although the Tokugawa "banished" the Mori to this remote province, Hagi would have been an ideal location for any warlord's center of power had it been more conveniently situated. The castle town is flanked by two branches of the Abu River, which split before reaching the ocean. The rivers and the sea provide natural defenses on all sides. At the tip of the peninsula is Mt. Shizuki, which sits in the farthest depths of the town and is extremely defensible—its only realistic vulnerability is from the sea. This fortified mountaintop provides panoramic 360-degree views, covering the ocean and the surrounding mountains before they descend into the city.

The castle itself is a complex structure, effectively merging two castles into one. In the Sengoku Period, it was common for a flatland castle to be paired with a nearby mountain redoubt (called Tsume-no-shiro). Hagi Castle follows this design. The flatland castle, which includes the honmaru and main keep, and the mountain redoubt are so closely integrated that they function as a single castle complex—one of the most unique and defensible designs I have seen. While some comparable large hilltop castles exist—such as Iyo Matsuyama Castle, which features a similar structure—the key difference is that Iyo Matsuyama's main keep and honmaru are located at the top of the mountain, whereas in Hagi, the primary castle structures are at the plains level making it a rare hybrid between a flatland and mountain castle. Extensive stone walls start with the gates of the Ninomaru and extend along the shores on both sides of the peninsula.

...main keep foundations, moats, ocean side etc.

One of the unique charms of this site is the lack of modern interventions such as signs, trails, or fences, allowing visitors to freely roam and explore the grounds. Hidden within the castle grounds are also remnants of old stone walls that are often overlooked. Some of these stone walls still retain traces of the clay walls that once stood atop them, though most have weathered away with time.

... some more walls.

The Tsune-no-maru at the top of the mountain was even more well fortified than most tsume-no-shiro with a complete rings of stone walls and 4 (?) yagura.

see more....

Another unique feature of Hagi Castle is that it retains many traces of how stone was cut and quarried on site to build the extensive stone walls. The remains are both at the top of the mountain and along the shore. I've never seen this extent of stone quarrying evidence left behind at any other castle.

Details here...

Samurai Districts

Starting from the Sannomaru, the highest-ranking samurai lived closest to the castle. Today, many of these large estates have been converted into natsu mikan (summer orange) orchards which helped preserve the size of some of the these propertiesreflecting the landholdings of the samurai who once lived there. Several of these estates still have an original gate but the homes are long gone — more on that later! The only surviving senior samurai residence is the Kuchiba Residence. When the Mori relocated to Yamaguchi, the Kuchiba were entrusted with control of Hagi, ensuring the preservation of their home through the Edo Period.

Kuchiba residence...

Gates....

See the Bukeyashiki Buildings album for more details

Samurai Residences and Historical Preservation

A significant portion of Hagi's tourism and historical promotion focuses on its role in the Bakumatsu Period and Japan's modernization. While this emphasis is valuable, it has made it challenging to determine which structures are truly from the Edo Period and which are related to other historical figures or built after the Edo Period.

However, it is safe to assume that most individuals who played major roles in the late Edo Period were born into samurai families. This background provided them with the education and opportunities that would later shape their influence. Some of the preserved residences and gates highlighted in Hagi date to the late Edo Period. While certain buildings may have been rebuilt or remodeled, they continue to reflect the architectural traditions and social structures of the time. For this reason, they are included here to illustrate the Edo Period roots of the town. I have only created separate profiles for samurai residences that were definitively built during the Edo Period and inhabited by samurai at that time. Hagi remains one of the most fascinating and well-preserved Edo Period towns in Japan, offering a rare glimpse into the urban planning, architecture, and social hierarchy of the time. Whether exploring its castle ruins, wandering through its historic samurai districts, or uncovering its pivotal role in the fall of the Tokugawa Bakufu, Hagi provides an unparalleled journey through history.