Battle of Shizugatake Feature + 17 new castles

This update brings 17 new castle profiles related to the Battle of Shizugatake and an all new feature article illustrating the battle in text, images and maps! See Battle of Shizugatake for more details. It all started with a visit to Genbao Castle and a quick stop at [[Tenjinyama Fort]

Battle of Shizugatake Feature + 17 new castles

2025-07-19

This update brings 17 new castle profiles related to the Battle of Shizugatake and an all new feature article illustrating the battle in text, images and maps! See Battle of Shizugatake for more details.

It all started with a visit to Genbao Castle and a quick stop at Tenjinyama Fort on the way home. But the more I absorbed about the events surrounding this battle, the more compelling the story became. Two years and six trips later, I had visited 18 castles in the region — some more than once. I’ve become quite familiar with the route from my home to Lake Yogo, as well as navigating the roads of northern Ōmi!

As I explored the history behind these castles, it became clear that the story was far too rich to tell through individual profiles alone. The pieces had to be woven together into a proper feature article to make sense of the battle as it unfolded across the landscape. Castle books and articles often gloss over history — or worse, simplify it so much to be misleading. On the other hand, most history articles tend to ignore the terrain and fortifications entirely. As a castle fan who enjoys understanding the deeper context and stories behind what I see on the ground, I decided to write the article I wanted to read. I hope you’ll enjoy it too.

This project was also a fun technical challenge. I learned more about using Leaflet maps and created several new styles (CSS classes) and map features to help visualize the campaign that I can re-use again in the future. If you know of other Kansai-based stories that deserve the same treatment, let me know! I have a few in mind already… and hopefully the next one won’t take two years.

Several planned winter visits were canceled due to snow, which delayed things considerably. Interestingly, most of my visits took place in April — the same season in which these castles were originally constructed. If all goes well, I'm going to visit maybe 2 more times this fall to add some ancillary forts and details to this feature.

Besshoyama Fort / 別所山砦

The signboard at Besshoyama Fort includes a basic map, but it’s overly simplified, showing just a single bailey surrounded by trenches and embankments. In reality, the site is much more expansive and includes several features that require some exploration to fully appreciate. There’s another small bailey to the north (“right” as you approach) that may have been an unfinished structure or a simple encampment.

Well before reaching the main fort area, you’ll encounter a massive tatebori trench about 200+ meters down the ridge. It’s not marked on the map, and while it functions as a defensive trench, it also serves as a shortcut down the south slope. This path passes near a largely undocumented site known as Yamaderayama Fort. This trench and fort may have been designed to protect a rapid deployment route to the southern slope. Just beyond this, you’ll also find a yokobori trench along the roadside—yes, there’s actually an abandoned logging road that runs nearly to the top of the mountain. These outer defenses are easy to miss and not well-documented, but they clearly formed an extended perimeter for Besshoyama.

As you continue toward the main bailey, you’ll notice slight embankments and ground shaping that create a switchback entrance to the main fortification. From here, the trail continues with a steep 40-minute climb to Gyoichiyama Fort at the mountain’s summit. Unfortunately, I had to turn back partway up the final stretch due to time constraints (spent too much time exploring other forts along the way) — and a lingering leg injury so I was not at my best nor fastest — but even without reaching the top, Besshoyama offered some of the most complete and layered fortifications along the entire ridge. It was clearly the highlight of the Mt. Gyoichi fortifications.

Chausuyama Fort / 茶臼山砦

The mountain behind the castle has been cut through for a road. The fort seems to have a central bailey on top and a couple side baileys, but it is hard to tell how much of the fort may have been damaged by the road or other development. The castle site could be on private property. It is not signposted but the area directly around it is being used and I had someone following and watching me from a distance the whole time.

Dogiyama Fort / 堂木山砦

The trail up to Dogiyama Fort drops you at the horikiri trench between Shinmeiyama Fort and Dogiyama Fort. You could visit them in either order.

Gyoichiyama Fort / 行市山砦

Unfortunately I did not make it up here. Maybe next time. This profile is a placeholder for the purpose of the maps.

Hayashitaniyama Fort / 林谷山砦

At first glance, Hayashitaniyama Fort may appear deceptively simple, but when you look closely, it is a fascinating site in the bigger landscape of Shibata fortifications. The castle is situated on a ridge that extends roughly north to south along the Hokkoku Kaido. A single embankment runs for an impressive 480 meters along the ridge overlooking the valley below. It was clearly designed as a frontline bulwark protecting the entire Shibata defensive line leading up to Gyoichiyama Fort and creating commanding presence over the highway. About midway along this 480m ridgeline sits a square-shaped bailey, which may have served as a lookout post or command station. The site starts with a sign pointing the way from the main trail. From here the trail is not clear but it's easy enough to follow the ridge and dorui embankment until the end. The embankment is not completely continuous but erodes and fades out in some place. An inubashiri type narrow "walkway" and some smaller side baileys looking down over the valley can also be seen in some places. After exploring this ridge you need to double back to the main trail to explore other castles in this defensive line.

Imaichikami Fort / 今市上砦

The ruins of the embankments here are slight and can be difficult to identify—especially the first square bailey, which is easy to miss. The highlight of this fort is the large horikiri trench near the top. Once you reach the ridge, it's actually a relatively easy walk over to Tohnoyama Fort, one of the most impressive forts in the Battle of Shizugatake network.

Just beside the Hachiman Shrine is a slightly elevated, flattened area with a grave for the Tohno clan, local landholders. Some say this was the site of their fortified residence, while others suggest the nearby Jurakuji Temple. This same area marks the trailhead for Imaichikami Fort. From here, head straight up the ridge. There is a worn path or trail-like route you can follow partway up. Along the way, there's a spot with what looks like dorui embankment to the left, offering excellent views up the valley. It's also more spacious around here, and I believe it must have been fortified or used as a lookout.

After this point, you’ll need to angle up the ridge to the right. It would be best to follow my Yamap trail or take a good map. There is no clearly defined route.

Iwasakiyama Fort / 岩崎山砦

Iwasakiyama Fort is easily accessible via a short walk from Yogo Station, making it the most approachable site in the Shizugatake fort network. At the top of the ridge, the fort’s layout spreads across three points facing north, forming a defensive line aimed at any force advancing from the Hokkoku Kaido. Compared to Oiwayama Fort or Shizugatake Fort, the site is more overgrown making the individual features a little harder to identify. There is a marked trail with a few signs that extend into the far reaches of the castle area, but even at the entrance some fallen tree and branches make you wonder if there is a trail or not. I saw several hikers simply walk by the entrance, offering only a passing glance up the hillside.

Kashiwadaniyama Fort / 柏谷山砦

From Tochidaniyama Fort, a side ridge leads to Kashiwadaniyama Fort, but there is no trail or signage—not even marked trees to guide the way. The route is fairly overgrown, and I found myself weaving back and forth, dodging thorny brushes, spider webs, and fallen trees as I followed the ridge.

At one point I nearly turned back, but trusted the terrain and eventually reached the ruins. The main bailey is clearly identifiable, as you’ll see in the photos, and the site is a worthwhile visit, if you’re prepared for a bit of off-trail adventuring.

From there, the ridge continues another 300+ meters to Ohtaniyama Fort (大谷山砦). I attempted to push forward, but the path was too choked with fallen bamboo and trees. After advancing only about 15 meters in tough conditions, I decided that climbing back through that mess while going uphill wasn’t worth the risk or effort.

While most of the forts on the Mt. Gyōichi ridge are accessible via a clearly marked and maintained trail, Kashiwadaniyama and Ohtaniyama are best left to experienced hikers or those equipped with GPS and a good sense of direction.

Nakataniyama Fort / 中谷山砦

Nakataniyama Fort is surprisingly easy to walk right past. If you’re following the trail up the mountainside, it dips into what looks like a washed out area (a common sight at castle ruins), marked by a sign pointing toward the mountaintop. But here’s the trick: that dip is actually the first moat of this fortification.

If you go left from the sign, you’ll follow the tatebori (vertical trench) running down the mountainside. If you go straight, odds are you’ll miss the castle entirely. The main structure is tucked off to the left beyond this trench, so use this trench and signpost as your cue to veer off-trail. Keep going until you hit an earthen embankment or another trench.

On paper, I didn’t expect much from this site—just a few oddly angled trenches without a recognizable castle layout. But once you’re there, walking the hillside, the logic of the design starts to come into focus. Like Hayashitaniyama Fort, this was likely a southern-facing fortification, intended to guard against a possible approach by Hideyoshi’s forces up the mountain.

The name of Tochidaniyama Fort and Nakataniyama Fort are flipped in some old materials and even the maps and signposts on the site. I'm using the naming conventions from the Shiga Prefectural Castle Survey, which are followed in most modern books and materials too. Unfortunately, the local signs have not been updated to match!

Oiwayama Fort / 大岩山砦

The castle site itself is quite small and requires only about 20 minutes to view it in its entirety. To reach the castle you need to either hike 2km downhill from Shizugatake Fort or 1.1 km up from Iwasakiyama Fort. The main enclosure is well maintained and signposted but the side baileys are overgrown and hard to get into.

Shinmeiyama Fort / 神明山砦

The trail up to Shinmeiyama Fort drops you at the horikiri trench between Shinmeiyama Fort and Dogiyama Fort. You could visit them in either order. Much further up the ridge from Shinmeiyama Fort was Shigeyama Fort, which is not often covered. It was created by Maeda Toshiie to prevent a rear attack from Shinmeiyama Fort against Sakuma Morimasa. Shigeyama Fort is not often covered and reportedly has no visible ruins.

Shizugatake Fort / 賤ヶ岳砦

Some of the site has been altered due to later development as a hiking trail and sightseeing spot, but the core fortifications remain clearly visible. On some weekends and holidays, volunteer guides offer detailed explanations of the battle and handout maps and "castle cards" of the castle. The commanding views over the surrounding battlefield—stretching to every major fort in the Shizugatake campaign and even back toward Odani Castle—make this one of the most visually and historically impressive sites of the entire conflict. The trees at the top of the mountain have been thinned back which make it easy to spot from around the area. My recommendation is to start from Kinomoto Station. Pick up your pamphlets, gojoin and other tourist information here. Take a taxi to the Shizugatake Lift and take the lift to the top. Lift Operating Hours vary by season and it is closed from around December to the end of April for snow. The ski lift to the summit makes the climb easy and fun. From there you can enjoy sweeping views of Lake Yogo, Lake Biwa, and the mountain ridgelines that once defined the strategic terrain. The downhill hike from Shizugatake to Yogo Station passes through Oiwayama Fort and Iwasakiyama Fort. Around the mountaintop and trail down, you’ll encounter a variety of wildflowers, some good birdwatching, and fresh mountain air—enough to turn this into an outdoor destination that you can trick even non-castle fan friends and family to enjoy with you.

Tabeyama Castle / 田部山城

There is no clear trailhead nor signage marking the approach to Tabeyama Castle. Following recommendations from other castle explorers, I circled around behind Toha Shrine and followed the ridge upward. According to some reports there is a shorter steeper trail from behind the nearby Hiyoshi Shrine too. The site is heavily overgrown, with dense weeds and many fallen trees. I was nearly ready to turn back when I finally came upon a single sign at the summit with a brief history of the site. It's hard to recommend to anyone but the most die hard fans. On the way back I somehow came down the opposite side of the mountain and had to circle back to find my bicycle.

Tagamiyama Castle / 田上山城

Tagamiyama Castle is well signposted and maintained, with a clear trail. Easy access and well preserved ruins make it a must-see castle site for anyone exploring castles in the area, not just the Battle of Shizugatake. I estimated about 20 minutes on foot to reach the trailhead, but on this trip I rented a bicycle, which made visiting both Tagamiyama Castle and nearby Tabeyama Castle very manageable. If you have the time and energy, you could easily add Shizugatake Fort into the route and make a full day of castle exploration in the area. The Kinomoto Tourist Information Center, inside the train station, also offers Gojoin (御城印) for most of the castles and forts in the area and maps and other materials to enhance your trip.

Tenjinyama Fort / 天神山砦

Look for the gate in the fence off to the left behind the Kusaoka Shrine. Some parts of this site are more overgrown than others documented here for the Battle of Shizugatake.

Tochidaniyama Fort / 橡谷山砦

The ruins of Tochidaniyama Fort are subtle in places. While individual earthworks can be faint, the fort’s placement at the junction of multiple ridgelines is easy to understand in the field.

From one of the lower baileys, a side ridge leads to Kashiwadaniyama Fort, but there is no trail or signage—not even marked trees to guide the way.

The names of Tochidaniyama Fort and Nakataniyama Fort are flipped in some old materials and even the maps and signposts on the site. I'm using the naming conventions from the Shiga Prefectural Castle Survey, which is followed in most modern books and materials too. Unfortunately, the local signs have not been updated to match!

Tohnoyama Fort / 東野山砦

This is possibly the most interesting, well-maintained, and signposted of the Shizugatake Battlefield forts. Access has become slightly more difficult, so it may not remain as well maintained in the future.

There are four ways into the site. The first is the former (now closed) logging road. It is a bit long and has a barrier, but it can be opened easily. A sign indicates “2.3 km to the castle,” so it appears visitors are still welcome this way. Go through the gate and follow to the right. See the photo below.

The second option is to hike through Shobudani Fort and take the steep ridge up. The main route into Shobudani is also beyond this same barrier, branching left.

The third is a marked trail near the Hachiman Shrine. I did not take this path, but the trailhead is clearly marked by the roadside and may be the most proper route.

The route I took was to start from Imaichikami Fort. I hiked the trail (which is somewhat confusing in parts) from the Hachiman Shrine up to Imaichikami, then continued past it to the ridge where I linked up with the old logging road. I was not sure this route would work. I was guessing from the maps but it turned out well. From there I followed the road mostly downhill to Tohnoyama Fort. After visiting, I descended via Shobudani Fort.

Tohnoyama Fort is often misread as “Higashinoyama,” but the correct reading is “Tohnoyama,” a local dialectal pronunciation of 東野山.

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